Twenty years ago, you would have to work hard to find a fine restaurant that served short ribs. Today, many of the best restaurants feature them on their menus, from innovative places specializing in contemporary cuisine to classic French restaurants to the most expensive steakhouses.
What's the secret behind the rapid rise of this humble cut of beef? More and more chefs and home cooks have been recognizing the wonderful tastes to be found in the kinds of traditional recipes featuring cuts that are rich in flavor specifically because they are so tough. Braised slowly and gently in liquid to melt their chewy connective tissue and soften their tough fibers, short ribs achieve a wonderfully moist, rich texture. I believe there is no better meat to braise.
You'll find short ribs in the meat department of most supermarkets. For most recipes, look or ask for those that have been butchered in what is sometimes referred to as the "English cut," square or rectangular chunks of meaty bones 2 to 3 inches long.
There's almost no way to overcook them. In fact, the only bad short ribs I've ever eaten have been those that were undercooked, still tough and chewy. Short ribs need at least a couple of hours over low heat on the stove top or in the oven; and, if you have a slow cooker, you can even start them in the morning at the low-heat setting and have dinner ready and waiting 8 or 10 hours later. So plan ahead and be patient, and the results will be as meltingly soft as butter.
In spite of the time involved, the preparation is fairly easy. Most of the work consists of browning the ribs first, which adds not just color but also deeper flavor to the final results. I also like to dust them with flour before browning, which helps to thicken the cooking juices.
When the short ribs are done, the most important step left to do is to remove the considerable amount of fat that melts away from the meat during cooking and floats on top of the braising liquid. Use a large, shallow metal spoon or ladle to skim it away, soaking up the last traces by draping paper towels on the surface. Or, if time allows, cook the short ribs a day ahead and refrigerate them; then, before reheating, just lift off the solidified fat.
For the recipe I share here, I add a moist, flavorful mushroom crust, a lavish but easy finishing touch I first developed to serve at the Governors Ball dinner following the Oscars ceremony. Try it yourself, and you, your family, and friends will be dining like stars on short ribs.
BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS WITH MUSHROOM PUREE
Serves 6
SHORT RIBS:
5 pounds beef short ribs
2 tablespoons coarse salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bottle dry red wine
All-purpose flour
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
6 large shallots, thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 medium leek, white part only, thoroughly washed and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 cup dried apricots
6 sprigs fresh Italian parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 quarts plus 1/4 cup good-quality canned beef broth
Minced parsley, for garnish
MUSHROOM PUREE:
1/2 pound button mushrooms, finely diced
1/2 pound fresh shiitake or chanterelle mushrooms, trimmed and finely diced
2 shallots, minced
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
Put the short ribs in a large dish or bowl and season evenly with salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, boil the wine until reduced by half, 20 to 30 minutes. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Evenly sprinkle the ribs with flour. Heat a heavy Dutch oven over high heat. Add 4 tablespoons of the oil; when it shimmers, reduce the heat to medium-high and, working in batches to prevent overcrowding, sear the ribs until well browned, about 5 minutes per side, transferring them to a platter.
Pour off the fat and add the remaining oil. Add the garlic, shallots, carrots, celery, and leek and saute until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the apricots, parsley and thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and tomato paste; saute, stirring, 1 minute more.
Return the ribs to the Dutch oven and add the wine and 2 quarts broth. If necessary, add enough extra broth or water to cover. Bring to a boil. Turn off the heat, taste the liquid, and lightly adjust the seasonings, if necessary, with salt and pepper.
Cover the Dutch oven and carefully transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is fork-tender, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Meanwhile, make the Mushroom Puree. Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat and add oil and butter. Saute the shallots until translucent, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and thyme, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook over moderate heat for until the mushrooms' liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes. Add the cream, bring to a boil, and simmer briskly until thick, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the breadcrumbs. Refrigerate until ready to use.
When the ribs are done, carefully remove from the oven, leaving the oven on. With a slotted spoon, transfer the ribs to one or more gratin dishes large enough to hold them in a single layer. Place the Dutch oven over high heat and boil the liquid until slightly thickened, skimming the fat from its surface. Strain the thickened liquid over the short ribs.
Spoon the mushroom puree over the ribs. Put the gratin dishes in the oven and cook for 15 minutes more.
To serve, transfer the short ribs to heated serving plates or a heated platter and sprinkle with minced parsley.
An updated and untraditional rémoulade makes a tangy sauce for these spice-rubbed shrimp. While this is a warm-weather favorite on the grill, you can also cook the shrimp under a preheated broiler. Cook shrimp on a lightly sprayed broiler rack, about 4 inches from the heat, for a winter warmer any night of the week.
